Half Moon Cay: Sea Horses!

By: Michelle Morañha Winner

February 9, 2010

Sea Horses!

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Half Moon Cay is the kind of place you dream about if you want a powdery crescent of beach curving around turquoise water with soft sand bottom. Add a horseback ride along the beach and you are in Paradise.

One of 700 low-lying islands and cays scattered for 100,000 square miles in the southwestern Atlantic from Florida to Haiti, Holland America developed Half-Moon Cay (pronounced key) to provide a day of fun and sun to include a barbecue, sipping tropical drinks with the requisite umbrellas, swimming, paddle boating, sting ray lagoons, sailing, para-sailing, long walks on the beach, snorkeling, yoga, massage, shopping, and, of course, horseback riding in the gentle ocean.
Not a large island like Eleuthera, Andros or others with commerce and housing, this island is solely for the use of the HAL cruise ship guests. After stopping for only a day in each of three ports prior to this stop, Grand Turk, San Juan, and St. Thomas, it was heaven to have a beach day!

On the island, Pegasus Ranch is shaded by palms, boasts 35 horses, and occupies part of the interior of the cay. At the corral down at the beach, Groom Rupert Scott tells me the horses barged over from Florida and the Bahamas islands and are mostly Arabians, Quarter Horses, and Thoroughbreds. “Hay and water has to be barged in, too, and it comes from America,” Rupert tells me. He loves living on the cay, taking care of the horses.

In the pastel beach shack tended by the beautiful Miss Eva Rolle of Eleuthera, we pull pants over our swimsuits, slather on sun screen, and line up for a helmet fitting. Rupert asks the riders about our experience level as he has us mount. Many who tell him they are experienced falter at this simple exercise and he quickly sorts them out on the proper horse with no embarrassment to anyone, “especially the horse,” he says with a bright smile.

We ride up a sandy hill behind the corral and wander the trail between the inland scrub and ocean-side ironwood to enjoy a view of the whole island and the sea. After winding around to the ranch to see the stallions, we return to the beach corral, dismount, and strip down to swimsuits. New mounts, saddled in neoprene, are offered to the guests. I’m thinking these saddles provide the gringos some traction for their seat in the water as they are not doing much else for me! The horses know the drill so well they really don’t require any cues. Hitting the water is a shock after baking on the ride to the ranch but it is magnificent to walk our horses in the azure ocean. What a fantastic feeling, being in the water on a horse!

An hour and 20 minutes passes so quickly. At the corral the group dismounts. The grooms shake hands with all of the men and say “ Great ride, Mon.” To the ladies they say “Respect m’lady!” They are such a beautiful people, dark with alert eyes and blazing smiles and this ride is one of those “bucket list” once-in-a-life-time experiences I highly recommend. Rupert gave me one big tip to pass along to you. When you book your Holland America itinerary to cruise the Caribbean (one that includes a stop on Half Moon Cay), book your horseback ride at the same time. The ride is always sold out at cruise time!

TO GET THERE:
Ft. Lauderdale Airport is a few miles from cruise port. Stay the night before your cruise as embarkation can be early. I stay at Marriott Courtyard in Dania Beach
www.FtLauderdaleAirportCourtyard.com. They pick up at the airport and tariff is moderate for the area. A great museum, the Fishing Hall of Fame, is next to the hotel and has fantastic displays. www.igfa.org

Holland America Caribbean cruises sail out of Ft. Lauderdale. www.HollandAmerica.com for itineraries and descriptions of activities onboard ship. Enjoy wine tasting, casino, shows, spa, duty-free shopping, chef demos, and fine dining. In compliance with new FTC rules, I received no compensation from HAL or Marriott to write this article.

IN PORTS:
Take a cab to Bohio Resort and relax at this unpretentious beachfront restaurant and hotel owned by Gerhard Hurst and Kelly Shanahan. www.bohioresort.com. A top dive destination, this PADI-certified resort offers snorkeling or diving right out front. Afterwards, dip into a potent rum punch and some conch fritters or soup. You’ll enjoy whatever chef Jorika Mhende cooks up. www.turksandcaicostourism.com

San Juan, Puerto Rico: Contact tour guide Victor Rivera prior to your trip and he’ll meet you at the dock, www.prnaturalculturalpapo.com. After a fantastic walking tour, end up at Latin Roots Restaurant, www.thelatinroots.com, and learn salsa dancing, taste fabulous Puerto Rican cuisine and sip a stellar mojito. For more on this beautiful island, www.gotopuertorico.com.

St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands: Charlotte Amalie’s fantastic downtown shopping is a draw but don’t miss Coral World at Coki Point. They offer scuba, turtle, and sea-life encounters, semi-sub, sea lions, and displays. Low key, you can also come to enjoy the beach. A 25-minute cab ride or rent a car. www.coralworldvi.com. For lunch, enjoy tender conch in butter sauce on the deck of the Watson family’s restaurant the Petite Pump Room with expansive views of the bay, www.petitepumproom.com. Visit www.usvitourism.vi for more.

In compliance with FTCrules, I had a gratis tour and dinner at Latin Roots in San Juan, lunch at Bohio T & C, and lunch and tour in St. Thomas, courtesy of the hosts and Tourism Departments. I write about my adventures because I enjoy them not because I am obligated to.

Photos courtesy of Kurt Winner

Hawaii cuisine: Four Pepper Spicy Grilled Chicken

Growing up in Hawaii you develop an appreciation for cross cultural mingling, especially in cuisine. Kurt Winner, my husband a native New York to Hawaii transplant and an avid chef, developed this favorite family recipe years ago. You can use it to create kabobs along with fat quarters of red,green and yellow bell peppers and onions or as a simple marinade for grilled chicken. He favors it served Buffalo New York style with an Oregon twist; alongside some Oregon Rogue bleu cheese dip and crudites.

Four Pepper Spicy Grilled Chicken

Ingredients:

• 1 package NOH Korean Kim Chee mix
• 3 pounds boneless chicken breasts
• Szechuan peppercorns,crushed
• black pepper,ground
• Cayenne pepper,ground
• chili pepper flakes
• bleu cheese, Rogue Bleu from Southern Oregon preferred
• Litehouse bleu cheese dressing,ready made
• crudites;celery sticks,broccoli florets,cherry tomatoes, cucumber sticks,red bell peppers

Directions:

A few hours before you wish to grill, sprinkle the NOH Kim Chee mix over the chicken in a zip lock bag, and as much of the four peppers as you wish ( be careful of the Szechuan - it overpowers easily) and put in the refrigerator. Prepare the crudites and arrange on a chilled platter. Crumble as much bleu cheese as you want into the Litehouse dressing and mix it together. When you are ready take the chicken out of the bag and grill it. Cut it into bite sized pieces and plate. Serve with the crudites plate and bleu cheese dip.

Serves six.

Note: NOH Kim Chee mix is available at Oriental Grocery on Southeast Portland's 82nd Avenue, Fu Bon shopping center on 82nd and Lilly Market in Southeast at 1001 N.E. Halsey. It contains chili pepper,garlic,ginger,shrimp salt and sugar.

Butte Creek Mill’s Bob Russell grinds it out

Bob Russell had a perfectly good life in toney Lake Oswego. He also had a huge collection of antiques- and “corporate uniform”neckties. But when Bob and His wife Debbie found an old mill along Little Butte Creek in Eagle Point, Oregon, the world changed for them.

Falling in love with the lifestyle along the Little Butte, a salmon tributary to the Rogue River, Bob and Debbie purchased the mill, a house across the street and an old cheese factory next door to the mill for an antique store. And Bob got rid of all of his neckties!

Bob greets me with a big smile from the flower-lined front porch of the 136 year old mill. “It’s the only grist mill in Oregon still grinding flour,” Bob tells me and the couple gathered in the entryway as he offers us a tour of the mill. He recites some history as we queue up behind him and waddle like ducklings behind Bob down the narrow stairs to the basement. “From as far back as1872 and far afield; farmers pulled their wagons filled with grain to the mill to have their flour ground. Every seventh bag of flour belonged to the miller as payment, to sell in the adjacent Butte Creek general store. Even the Klamath Indians came walking 90 miles from Fort Klamath to trade berries and leather goods for flour.”

At Butte Creek there is no water wheel. To our puzzled group Bob explains,” Butte Creek Mill is not a water wheel operated mill, rather the water in the millrace flows into a pen-stock twelve feet deep, where its weight provides pressure to activate the turbine that runs the wheels, belts and pulleys. This movement also turns the large millstones that grind the grain. “ Fearing he may lose us- he points to each part as he progresses through his delivery. Collectively, the lights turn on in our brains.

Clambering behind Bob again we stop in front of massive French buhr stones that still grind the grain today. Bob flips a switch and slowly the behemoths come to life. “ The sound of the working mill was very quiet,” his eyes twinkling as he continues,“ today we underplay the green power thing here!” Ad then he flashes that smile of a man who has found his passion in life.

Visit Bob and Debbie, antique store, and Mill store with it’s extensive collection of old food cans and bottles and purchase their scone mixes, pancake mix, fresh stone ground grains and much more at www.buttecreekmill.com . From the website you can click on a you tube version of Bob’s famous mill tour.

Here is a recipe for some delightful muffins found right on the back of Butte Creek Mill’s Bran Muffin Mix. But you’ll have to send for the mix via the website as there are no retail outlets in Portland. The mix contains all the wheat bran, stone ground whole wheat flour, wheat germ, buttermilk, baking soda, spices and salt you need. As it says on the bag, “ they’re addictive!”

UPSIDE DOWN PINEAPPLE BRAN MUFFINS

Make the bran muffin mix and stir in 1/2 cup crushed pineapple (juice drained and pressed out) omitting the raisins the mix calls for. Instead of mixing the 4 Tablespoons Honey the mix calls for add 4 tablespoons melted butter to it. Spoon the honey/butter mixture into the muffin cups to cover the bottom. Spoon muffin batter into cups to almost full. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until done. Serve upside down.

Prospect Hotel's Hazelnut French Toast

After a dreamy sleep you can smell the coffee in the morning from your room and if you are lucky they will be serving:

Whole Wheat Hazelnut French Toast

For two ( large portions)

Whole Wheat French Bread sliced in 1” thick pieces, 4 slices

3 large eggs

1/4 cup Half &Half

1/8 cup water

1/3 cup flour

2 Tablespoons Hazelnut syrup flavoring

Dash of salt

1tsp cinnamon

Chopped Oregon Hazelnuts

Process: Combine eggs, Half & Half, water , flour, syrup, salt, and cinnamon. Whip until batter is fluffy. Dip French Bread slices into batter and let soak for just a few seconds. Carefully place on low heat griddle such that batter drippings from bread are completely underneath each slice. Cook to a light brown. Flip and cook until center of bread “springs” back. - keeping heat low. Place two slices on plate dust with powdered sugar , sprinkle hazelnuts over top. Serve as the hotel does with a medium boiled egg, sausage patty and maple syrup. Then go for a walk!

Oregon mixed berry crisp

Oregon berries are the best in the world. A combination of all of Oregon's best berries; this easy recipe always evokes summer. Freeze the berries as they arrive in summer for summer baking and sweet memories in the fall and winter. My husband, Kurt Winner makes this popular dessert for every get together. Makes a large pan, great with homemade vanilla or chocolate fudge ice cream. The shortbread cookie crust is buttery and the perfect counter play to the ambrosia of mixed berries.

Oregon mixed berry crisp

Ingredients:

Filling:

• 5 -6 cups total of mixed berries: blueberry, marionberry, strawberry,blackberry, raspberry to fill a buttered 9x13 inch or 4 quart glass baking pan
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca, uncooked

Topping:

• 2/3 cup unsalted butter, softened and mostly melted
• 1 3/4 to 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup powdered sugar
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Right in the glass pan mix all berries gently. Sprinkle with the sugar and tapioca- mix again. Set aside. In a mixing bowl sift flour, salt , sugars and baking powder. Mix with a fork . Pour in the butter and toss with a fork or hands until it is a coarse crumble. A mix of large and small pieces is good. Sprinkle topping over the berries evenly. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes. Any left over is best kept in the fridge.

Makes a pan for a party of 12 large servings, 16 smaller portions.

Michoacán, the heart and soul of Mexico

From Global Writes Magazine: Michoacán, the heart and soul of Mexico Story and photos by Michelle Winner Edited by Kim Rahilly Ever dreamed of waking up in a city where time stands still? Where pink buildings glow in the sun as if lit from within? Add to this idyll a mass migration of butterflies. And yes, it's real! A toy seller in Morelia's Plaza Centro In a verdant mountains where Monarch butterflies winter beats the heart of old town Morelia. This 16th century Baroque city, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural and Artistic Site, was built by the Spanish colonizers and thus boasts a grand cathedral, shaded plazas, elegant buildings of pink quarry stone, lyrical fountains, an aqueduct, tree-lined “calzadas” (pedestrian-only streets), and treasure troves of art and books. Largely undiscovered as an arts-and-culture tourism destination, Morelia offers a rich heritage of Spanish influence combined with ancient native culture, resulting in a vital and expressive city. The weather is delightful, too, at a steady 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer. The pink quarry stone cathedral marks the center of Morelia's historic district The Michoacán state in the middle of Mexico offers a diverse range of experiences that are just a few hours apart by car. You can visit a typical town festival (Paracho's guitar festival is in August; surf La Ticla, Playa Salandita and Boca Pascuales on the coast; enjoy warm cream of avocado soup at Mansion Del Cupatitzio's beautiful restaurant in Urupan, the capitol of avocado production; see traditional windowless, nail-less Indian cabin structures called “la troje” near Nurio; watch fishermen dip their famous butterfly nets into Pátzcuaro Lake and enjoy the enchanting capitol city of Morelia. Our guide Déborah López Garcia, a beautiful, aristocratic woman, made the culture and history of Morelia come alive for us. We traipsed through cobblestoned streets marveling at the cathedral's painted ceilings; learned the legacy of San Nicolas College; marveled at the Indian-faced cherubs decorating the altar at the Temple of the Roses; and heard guitar rifts wafting from behind a rugged wooden door at the Music Conservatory as Ms. Lopez Garcia relayed the factors that drove history and the struggles of the people. Suddenly, a young man ran up and told us in English that he was from Washington state, and that he was very surprised to see American journalists at his school. Just as quickly, he ran off to join his friends, switching into rapid-fire Spanish. After all, Morelia is filled with surprises. Chef Lucero's Churipo and Fish with Saint Leaf is an example of how she puts a new twist on traditional dishes Late in the afternoon, we settled into lunch at Restaurant LU, rising-star chef Lucero Soto Arriaga's “temple” of Michoacán-fusion cuisine. LU presents Michoacan's traditional ingredients in a fresh way that combines ancient and modern preparation techniques. Her menu is almost a metaphor for modern Morelia: it reflects a reverence for the old while embracing new ideas. The cuisine and the city are delicious! Morelia has been a conduit for several AP stories on the drug wars in the mountains of Michoacán, but I can tell you that my personal safety was never in question. The city is beautiful, elegant and full of things to discover including the outlying towns representing the two dynasties that shaped the Michoacan. Charming Pátzcuaro, referred to locally as the “magic town,” feels untouched since the time of the Conquistadors. The ruins of the ancient Purépecha Indian kingdom of Tzintzuntzan was built stone-by-stone on a hill overlooking Pátzcuaro Lake. TRAVEL INFORMATION Tourism Office Juan Bosco Castro Garcia, Promotion Director at the Secretaria de Tourismo's office or Altizma Reyes de la Torre in Public Relations can assist you with an outline of an ideal trip. www.michoacan.gob.mx Déborah López Garcia offers personally guided tours, and I strongly recommend that you contact her. Traveling with a native speaker and guide is an invaluable way to get the most out of your time here. Email: deborahlg@hotmail.com In Morelia I recommend: Casa San Diego suites and restaurant. This sleek hotel of carved stone and modern design comes alive on the rooftop lounge, a hotspot for young Morelians. Manager José Miguel Salcedo Maldonado is also the chef, and he offers delightful small bites and a signature cocktail made with “tamarindo.” You will sleep best in a room that's not too close to the lounge. www.casasandiego.com.mx Hotel Virrey de Mendoza. With views of the nearby cathedral, this former palatial house has “seen” local history unfold as it passed through the hands of Spaniards, and survived the Mexican Revolution. During one period, it was even turned into a customs house. But since its conversion in 1939, it has remained an ornate hotel offering style and grace to any stay. Locals enjoy drinks overlooking the town square. www.hotelvirrey.com Villa Montaña Hotel and Spa, a maze of secret gardens, bungalows, trellises and a sparkling pool overlooking the city, this hotel also offers breathtaking views of twinkling Morelia from the restaurant. See their Blackberry Margarita recipe below. www.villamontana.com.mx "Villa Montaña's Blackberry Margarita Serves: 1 1 ounce simple syrup 2 ounces white tequila Juice of half a lime 1 ounce Triple Sec or Controy, the Mexican orange liquor 3-6 fresh blackberries, mashed Coarse sea salt Prepare a salt-rimmed glass by dipping the rim into cold water and shaking off the excess. Pour a generous amount of sea salt onto small plate. Dip the damp rim into the salt. Shake off the excess. Place the ingredients into a cocktail shaker with five ice cubes. Cover, shake to blend and strain into prepared glass containing four ice cubes. Hint: you may want to try it with a little ground chile powder mixed with the salt to rim the glass. “Mucho Gusto!”" Chef Lucero Soto Arriaga‘s Restaurant LU is a not-to-miss restaurant for Michoacán cuisine. It is inside the Best Western Hotel Casino at 229 Portal Hidalgo, 58000 Morelia, Mich., Mexico. Tel: + 52 443 313 1328. Email: reservaciones@hotelcasino.com.mx At San Miguelito Restaurant, San Antonio rules the roost…albeit upside down! Figures of Saint Anthony are suspended upside down from the ceiling and walls in the back room. The saint's favorable response to your wish might bring you money or a husband. Of special interest is the testimonial book, but watch out for the geezers who sit at a back table preying on maidens looking for a spouse. A pretty brilliant tactic if you ask me! www.sanmiguelito.com.mx El Gustito “Cochina Traditional” is a sweet home-style restaurant serving Michoacán comfort food. Try the cooling mint drink and Michoacán enchilada with potato and carrot. It is at #359 Aldama Street. Nurio's old church is decorated for a festival Hotel Los Juaninos has a perfect restaurant, La Azotea, for breakfast with a terrace overlooking the cathedral. Enjoy fresh-squeezed juices, crepes stuffed with mushrooms or the truffle-like huitlacoche, a local delicacy. www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx Museo del Dulce. Morelia is famous for its sweets, particularly fruit geleés made of quince and guava. Watch the preparation on a wood-fired stove in the museum‘s traditional kitchen. Pick up some candies for the folks back home from the Victorian-costumed staff, and sample Rompope, a popular, sweet eggnog-type drink. It is at Av. Madero Oriente #440, Centro Historico. In Pázcuaro, I recommend: Hosteria de San Felipe is a comfortable hotel just outside of the old city that is surrounded by patios and charming gardens, and serves lovely traditional meals. It is managed by the vivacious Fabiola Huerta H. www.hosteriadesanfelipe.com.mx At the palatial La Mansión de los Sueños you will not find a bustling lobby even though it is only a block from Pázcuaro's Plaza Vasco de Quiroga named for the beloved first Michoacán bishop and protector of the people. You will find a fully restored grand residence with inner courtyards, exquisite murals and yes, a suite full of dreams. www.prismas.com.mx © Story and photos by Michelle Winner, 2009 Chronological Wining and Dining in Charlottesville and Alemarle County by Joe Hilbers Adventures in Sicily by Rosie DeQuattro SPAIN'S COSTA DEL SOL by Carol Oldham O'Hara FOREIGN SERVICE by Peter I. Rose Tauck Swiss Jewel is a Gem by Lillian Africano 1 to 5 of 110 The official magazine of: International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA) © 2007 International Food Wine and Travel Writers Association CharlotteCountyWebsites.com

Bride Wore Birekenstocks II: Solstice Salad

Unconcerned with the reception preparations going on all around them, the wedding party posed for their portraits near the fairy-tale white tent. Nattily attired in beige suits with ties of cotton candy pink, the groom's men stood smiling. The maid's simple column dresses with tonal graduation from deep ruby to ice pink complemented the bride's re-embroidered Italian lace top and long silk skirt.

Two little flower girls twirled in circles to spin their beautiful dresses as all little flower girls do, maryjanes tapping on the wooden deck. The young ring bearer wearing a tiny suit and a serious expression was getting some last minute advice from his dad about what an important job he had to do. Everyone looked cool and elegant.

Here is another delightful summer wedding favorite from our wedding planner at Historical Church Wedding Planning & Officiants . It's tasty, colorful and keeps crisp for a summer wedding reception on a bed of ice .

Solstice Salad

Double/ triple/etc. this recipe makes enough for 18-20

• 1 pound package frozen ( NOT CANNED) petite peas
• 1 pound package frozen white corn
• 1 large sweet red pepper
• 2 ribs celery diced
• 3 scallions
• 1 carrot, diced
• 1/2 cup cilantro, minced
• 1- one pound can black beans rinsed and drained
• 1- one pound can cannelloni or garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
• 1- one pound can dark red kidney beans , drained and rinsed

Combine the first seven ingredients with dressing carefully by folding together.

Spicy Cumin Vinaigrette

• 1/4 cup wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 huge clove of garlic, mashed
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon Mexican oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce ( Tabasco or similar- I like the Mexican brands)

Combine all in a large jar and shake . Pour over the salad and chill for 4 hours.